Have you considered using right angle jacks/xlr? would help in reducing cable protrusion I imagine? I use right angle jacks and the Temple Audio 4 cable patch module (probably gonna swap over to their DI Pro Mod at somepoint) so all external cables (like running to cab and DI box) run out the side of the board rather than the back. Just an idea!
Good idea! Thanks. Problem solved!
In my Hi5 one of the Leds of the 3rd power out gone off wen I start the Neural ā¦ whatās could be ?
Is it still powering up? I guess it could be a couple of things. If itās still drawing power and the QC still works, then perhaps maybe the LED itself is blown? Otherwise maybe grab some pics and email Temple Audio/Cioks for advice. I wouldnāt wanna open up the power supply and tinker without knowing what Iām looking at!
I read somewhere on the CIOKS website that itās normal behavior when using the parallel connectors. It is dependent on the current draw, though. I see similar behavior on my DC7 when I ramp up the display brightness on the QC. Try to vary your display brightness and check if the LED goes on and off. IMHO, nothing to worry about.
Iāve been looking at trying to use the Hi5, but I canāt figure out how to power it. Everyone here is using the AC MOD which isnāt sold anymore.
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I am trying to figure out what I want to do as well. I have a Temple Audio Solo 18 on its way. I only plan on having my QC and a passive expression pedal on my board. It would be nice to have one extra 9v/12v output in case I want to connect one of the Temple Audio Mods (LEDs or USB charging). The Hi5 seemed like the perfect option for what I want to do.
From what I have read, the Strymon Ojai has similar power requirements (24V with EIAJ-05 connector). You can order just the power supply on their website, and maybe a few other places. I would need to review the specs a little more closely, but seems like it could work for the Hi5.
My problem is that the Hi5 itself is difficult to find. It seems to be out of stock everywhere. Maybe this whole product is on its way out? It is, however, still featured on the Temple Audio Website. For that matter, I also cannot find the IEC AC Mains mod in stock anywhere. I may need to search for some other panel-mounted IEC C14 connector.
The other potential option is the CIOKS SOL power supply. It has similar specs to the Hi5 (5 outputs each 500mA @ 12V), except that it takes 120-240VAC as the input. It seems to essentially be a Hi5 with a built-in AC power converter. It is a little bigger and does not fit into the end cap mod slot, but otherwise pretty comparable.
The last option for me would be the DC7 with a CRUX extension. I do prefer having only a single 12V 2A cable going to the QC. With either Hi5 or the SOL, I would need to use multiple stages of parallel adapter cables to bring the capacity up to 2A. I am sure it works just fine, but it feels a little hokey. Also, in my experience performing EMC/compliance testing, Y-cables are often problematic because the shielding is tricky.
Another consideration for me is that the SOLO does not have a lot of space underneath. Watching the Temple Audio build video for Pliniās boards, they use the DC7+CRUX combo and it looks super tight. It is also more expensive and a bit of overkill for this situation. I wish the SOL had a 24V output to power the CRUX 
TL;DR: Iāll probably just oder the SOL and some parallel adapter cables.
EDIT: I was eventually able to find and purchase both the Hi5 and the Temple Audio 65W power supply. I now have the 65W supply feeding the Hi5 which then sends 24V to the CRUX. Very clean with no need to stack Flex cables across multiple outputs.
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Saw a Temple Audio build recently with Fluff, where he ended up using a Furman Power Supply instead of CIOKS or any other typical power supply Iād see on here.
Now, Iām literally only using a QC and a wireless unit. Do I need all this CIOKS/Ojai stuff? Or can I just rock a strip like Fluff is using?
@drewboy The QC will only draw a max of about 1.8A, and thatās during bootup. I got involved in determining the max draw because I have a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 3+ that is advertised as being able to run the QC via the X-link port on the unit (1 of 2 ports that share 2A). I ran my own amperage draw testing and the max draw I found was 1.74A during QC bootup, 1.4A during actual usage (full screen brightness & CPU-heavy preset). So, the PP3+ lets you connect the QC to the PP3+ power supply via one simple 2.1mm pedal cable. SO much simpler than all the various CIOKS configurations that require either a CRUX unit, or parallel cables, or voltage doublers. AND, for the price of the PP3+, your get TWELVE more isolated power ports besides the X-link used to power the QC. (9) 500mA ports and 2 others that are switchable between 9V 500mA or 12V 200mA. I honestly donāt understand why the PP3+ is not the power supply of choice to power a QC on a pedalboard. Here is the link to the thread where I do all my testing and explaining":
Just throwing my 2 cents out thereā¦ I went through a couple of different power supply options (all of which I had already from previous board builds) with the Strymon Ojai and Zuma R300, and a laptop power supply that met the requirements, but ultimately landed on the Temple Audio 65W Power Supply and a CIOKS Crux for simplicity and size factor. Iām using a Temple Audio SOLO 18 board with my QC and a passive expression pedal (Dunlop DVP4 Volume X Mini). Initially I had the Temple Audio Power Amp mounted to one of the side jacks and I was trying to accommodate power for that so I could run an external cab, and have everything contained within the board. It proved to be more problematic than it was worth so I switched to the Seymour Duncan PowerStage 170 and that has been a great setup for me. I have the PowerStage inside the back of the cabinet (attached with dual lock to the bottom of it) and that setup works great.
In short, the Temple Audio 65W Power Supply brick and a CIOKS Crux is all you need if the only thing youāre powering is the QC.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Quick questionā¦
Iām currently using a Cioks DC7 with the 3 parallel adapter cables and my Cioks gets really hot. Iām looking for an alternative solution but it needs to fit under my Pedaltrain Metro 20 which only has a little over 1 inch (25.4mm) clearance underneath.
What is the height of the Temple Audio 65W Power Supply? Itās dimensions are unfortunately nowhere to be found on the interwebs.
Any info would be appreciated! :o)
Well unfortunately, itās a bit bigger than what you need I think. Itās close to 1.5ā in depth and close to 2ā wide. Itās still small, but sounds like itās not small enough for the a flat board like the Metro 20. I would recommend getting some larger feet replacement for your metro to get it a bit off the ground, or even at an angle, so you have more clearance. Hope that helps!
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Hi.
I have a Ciox Dc-7, with the Crux powering the QC.
I want to add the Temple Usb Mod, but it says I would need the same connection that is already being used for the QC to power it?
Is there a way around this? Why does the usb mod need that much power?
Can I link 2 of the Dc-7 outputs to power the usb mod?
I want to run my Yamaha Wireless headphones from the Mod, because the base is the transmitter, and needs to be plugged into 24v all the time.
I just want to keep external cables to a minimum, and the one power cable to the iec mod is perfect.
Iām also using the Blackstar Airwire i58 wireless guitar system, and it works a treat for home playing Practice.
Not that Iām aware of since the USB mod needs 24v. Assuming the USB mod needs that much power in order to power any devices you plug into it.
This is how Iām powering it. I wish the devices using ā24 Linkā always provided an isolated pass-thru (like on the Hi5 Mod) but most are terminal devices meant to be at the end of the chain. Having a pass-thru would avoid the need for the multiple layers of flex cables.
Appreciate the reply!
It seems like a lot of work to just power a Temple USB mod? Isnāt the Hi5 the same as the DC-7 in terms of what it does?
I wonder why they never made the DC-7 with 2 outputs for 2 Crux modules? Knowing that it powers a QC, it might have been worth them doing it.
Kinda means I either need to buy a Hi5, to add it to my existing mess under my Solo 18 board 
or replace the DC-7 with the Hi5. I suppose I could replace it given that the Hi5 has 2 outputs that Iād need.
Whatās the Temple 65 watt for?
Itās a 65 Watt Power Brick meant to help have clean power. I use it as my sole power supply, and run the CIOKS CRUX off of it. The only thing on my board that needs power is the QC so this works well in my case.
Does the power brick keep noise to a minimum?
Iāve got the IEC Mod for my Templeboard powering the DC-7 and the Crux.
I never knew fitting a USB mod would be so much hassle
I think it does. Iāve used other power supplies and such, but for my needs I didnāt need something like a DC-7 since Iām only powering the QC. I still have a Zuma and Ojai if I need more power on another pedalboard build, but for now I donāt. The power brick works well and supplies a good clean source of power. No issues or complaints, and it fits nicely under the Temple SOLO18. I have the IEC Mod as well, and that runs into the 65 Watt PS, into the CRUX and then QC.
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One main difference between the DC7 and the Hi5 MOD is that the Hi5 MOD needs 24V power in. It is missing the 120V conversion, hence the need for something like the separate power brick. You would not need that if you have the DC7. I am also using the IEC MOD, but I forgot to add it to my diagram.
Regarding the number of cables required to connect the USB MOD, you could likely simplify if your charging needs were more modest. Connecting only one Flex Series adapter (2200) to two 12V outputs would give you 24V 0.5A. It may still charge smaller USB devices without issue. I donāt have access to my board, but I can test it later this week.
The purple ācableā in my original diagram is a small RCA adapter. This is the link to the ones I ordered, but there are lots of options.
One other note if you are trying to mount the USB MOD in a SOLO 18 board - it is a very tight fit, and you will likely need to remove the end cap to properly seat the mod. In my case, the screw which held the rubber foot was interfering with the USB MOD (see photo). I had to shorten the screw and then everything worked out. It is a bit of a hassle, and I was convinced I was doing something wrong at first. Temple Audio support confirmed the issue. If you donāt want to cut the screw (or if you donāt have a shorter screw), you can add small washers under the rubber foot to create space.
